Tools and materials needed
Circular noticed with an adjustable blade suitable for cutting dimensional lumber
A 10-foot piece of 2-by-8 treated pine lumber
10d (ten penie) nails, 3-inches long
Carpenter claw hammer
Silicone caulk and caulk gun
Exterior latex paint and brush
To eliminate the trim, first, slide the blade of a utility knife below the edges of the trim to cut any existing caulk seal between the trim and jamb. If the trim is nailed to the jamb, slide a pry bar blade below the trim and commence to cautiously pull the trim up and away from the jamb. If screws are used to fasten the trim to the jamb, then remove them with a screwdriver. Once the trim is removed, set it apart to reinstall on the new jamb.
2. Remove the rotting jamb – With the trim out of the way, the next step is to remove the jamb itself. Before prying, you need to take a look at how the jamb is related to the header piece. Some jambs are reduced at a 45-degree attitude at the top quit and abut towards the header cease in an identical manner as a photo frame. Other jambs might also be in reality put into the region with a flat-on-flat abutment. It’s necessary to know how your jamb is established so you do not do harm to the header upon removal.
Once you determine how the jamb is installed, begin at the backside of the jamb and start applying pressure with the pry bar. Work slowly and carefully up the aspect of the doorway, and when you get shut to the top, be positive to pull the jamb piece away from the header so it would not put a strain on it, specifically if the abutment consists of two dealing with 45-degree angles. After the jamb is sooner or later removed, scan the framing behind the jamb for any protruding nail “stragglers” and eliminate them with your hammer.
3. Measure and reduce the new jamb – Measure the distance between the top of the area via the header all the way to the backside of the doorway. Mark the distance on a 10-foot piece of 2-by-8 treated pine lumber, then subtract one-half inch to permit room for growth of the lumber. If the jamb matches into the header with a 45-degree end, then adjust your circular saw for a 45-degree cut putting and make the reduction across the jamb. Otherwise, with a flat dealing with jamb, reduce throughout the board with a conventional perpendicular cut.
4. Install the new jamb – After slicing the new jamb, push it into a function so the hole between its top ceases and the header is eliminated. While keeping the jamb in position, pressure 3-inch long 10d nails thru the jamb and into the stud behind it. Use one nail for every 6 inches alongside the jamb and force two-to-three nails at the top and backside stop of the jamb. Be cautious no longer to pressure the nails into brick or siding that would possibly lie behind part of the jamb.
5. Install the trim and end the jamb – Once the jamb is secured in position, reattach the trim in the equal place as before the use of the appropriately-sized nails or screws. Next, run a ¼-inch line of caulk alongside the edges of the trim and jamb to seal gaps between the individual pieces, the wall of the storage, and the header. Allow the caulk to dry, then paint the jamb with a matching exterior latex paint of your choice.
If whilst changing a jamb you notice injury on the door itself that appears serious, or maybe you inflict harm to your personal in the process, contact an expert.